Bindweed

I’ve had a gentleman ask how you can get rid of bindweed in the garden, so I’ve written this post to show what possible controls there are out there to try on this menace of a weed.

Bindweed covers two varieties, the hedge bindweed (Calystegia sepium) and field bindweed (Convolvulus arvensis). Both wrap themselves around other plants and smother them in the process. The hedge bindweed has white trumpet shaped flowers and the field bindweed had smaller white or pink flowers.

Bindweed is a very problematic weed as it has a perennial root system which allows it to come back year after year, and even the smallest bit of root left in the ground can sprout a new plant. The extensive root system means that the plant can extend up to two metres above ground in a single season.

It is very difficult to remove bindweed from a plot of land using non-chemical methods but if you put the effort in, then you may see an improvement. As the roots are so extensive it is worth putting a physical barrier along fences and boundaries to stop it encroaching onto other land. It would need to be a vertical, solid barrier that reaches at least 45cm deep.

You can always dig the ground where you have found the bindweed and remove as much of the root as possible but in spring you will likely get more growing and will need to repeat the process.

You can also hoe the soil if digging would mean you disturbed other plant roots in the area. By doing so you would sever the weed at ground level but again this would need repeating as the weed will persist and come back again.

Should you wish to use a chemical method then Glyphosate will attack the weed by entering the foliage and would work its way down the plants’ system. As this chemical is a non-selective weed killer it is essential that you don’t spray neighbouring plants as it will kill these off too. The most effective time to spray the weed is when it has started flowering but can be effective in autumn too.

Information provided by www.rhs.org.uk

Welcome Fresher's!

Today marks the start of the Fresher's Fair at Headingley Campus. Cue lots of new students looking around in a dazed and confused yet excited manner. It's the beginning of three fantastic years as a student of Leeds Beckett University and taking part in all that we have to offer.

Here's the map of Headingley campus again should any students reading this blog need to know where their next lecture is :)

1: James Graham, 2: Student Hub/Refectory, 3: Caedmon, 4: Priestley, 5: Leighton, 6: Macaulay, 7: Bronte, 8: The Grange, 9: Cavendish, 10: Fairfax, 11: Design and Technology, 12-20: Carnegie, 21: The Cottage, 22: Churchwood, 23: North Lodge, 24: Carnegie Village, 25: Coach House, 26: Landscape Resource Centre and Experimental Gardens, 27: South Lodge, 28: Queenswood, 33: Changing Pavilion.

I hope that all the students new and old love the Headingley campus and what there is to see within the grounds on a day to day basis. Be it the wonderful wildlife we have or the bloomin' marvellous flowers in each border which add a dash of colour to their surroundings, especially in the spring and summer months.

At the moment we have a lot of greenery rather than flowers but this still adds a lot to the campus. The Phormium always look stunning any time of year and can be found in the borders of Cavendish, Fairfax, and outside the Carnegie gymnasium. The Lonicera at Carnegie has yellow leaves which adds a little bit of a different perspective to the border, and the Mahonia found outside the James Graham building has a stunning lime green shade. The Hydrangea's have all but finished flowering for the season now but there may still be the odd flower hanging on.

We have a few Hosta's dotted about campus and if the slugs haven't eaten all the leaves yet then it's worth keeping an eye out for them, especially at Churchwood. They have a lovely light green shade with really defined veins and with a white stripe running around the edge of the leaf. The Rowan trees dotted about campus are still looking brilliant with all the bright red berries ready and waiting for the birds.

I will keep you all updated on what else there is to look out for over the coming autumn and any projects we may be undertaking as the growing season slows down.



(Photos taken by myself, September 2016)

September Maintenance

What to do in your garden in September

 

·         Sow sweet peas in the greenhouse ready for next year

·         Sow hardy annuals in situ

·         Plant new perennials towards the end of September as the soil is still warm and moisture levels are increasing

·         Dead-head hanging baskets or if past their best then replant with winter bedding

·         Continue to dead-head Dahlia, roses, Delphiniums and Penstemons to prolong the display

·         Cut back perennials that are fading and dying down

·         Divide herbaceous perennials such as Crocosmia

·         Take cuttings of tender perennials such as Pelargonium and Osteospermum

·         Continue to take and store seed from perennials

·         Wait for the frost before lifting the tubers of Dahlias and Cannas

·         Late flowering tall perennials will need staking to prevent wind damage

·         Shrubs and trees can now be moved without worrying about their survival and establishment

·         Prune late-flowering shrubs such as Helianthemum

·         Prune climbing roses once they have finished flowering

·         Clear dead leaves promptly once they start to fall

·         Fill gaps in your borders with autumn flowering plants to extend the colourful season

·         Plant Hyacinth and Amaryllis bulbs for forcing in time for Christmas presents

·         Plant spring flowering bulbs such as daffodils and crocus now

·         Keep Camellias and Rhododendrons well watered to ensure next year’s buds develop well

  

Information provided by www.thompson-morgan.com and www.rhs.org.uk

 

Sonic the Hedgehog

On the 7th July I was working in the car park next to the 3G pitches and happened to see this little guy shuffling across the tarmac and then into the border. I love seeing wildlife like this on campus because it just shows how diverse our campus can be with the amount of wildlife we come across.
This one was an adult as, although its hard to tell on the photograph, it was actually quite large.
Then on the 27th July whilst litter picking on a morning before the morning graduation took place I saw this little guy in the grass.

Now this one had me concerned because its very unusual to see a baby hedgehog curled up in plain site in an open grassed area during the day. So I did a little research online and got in contact with the Hedgehog Society and I found out that should you ever find a hedgehog like this then it needs urgent care and assistance.

So I'd just like to share some information with you about the hedgehog otherwise known as Erinaceus europaeus.
Although once a common sight across the British Isles but not on the Scottish Islands, it is now in severe decline with an estimate in 2010 of just 1 million now in the wild (1).
A hedgehog can have between 5000 and 7000 spines on their body and what many people aren't aware of is that they do actually have a small tail (2).
Their dietary needs consist mainly of insects but they are known to be partial to a bit of dog food and it does help to put out a saucer of water especially during the summer season.
Should you find a baby hedgehog called a Hoglet sunbathing like I did last week then this does need urgent care. The only reason for them to do this is to try and warm up. So should you find one then you should put it in a fleece or towel lined box using thick gardening gloves, and place a bottle of warm water either underneath or to the side of the hoglet to try and warm it up.

Then you should call your local hedgehog rescue centre or the Hedgehog Preservation Society (01584 890 801) to find out your next step.
Unfortunately for the little guy I found, it was too late. I managed to get him into a box with a warm water bottle and took him to my local rescue but just as we arrived he passed away. It was rather heart wrenching as we got so close but not soon enough. So should you find yourself in a similar situation please do try and save them asap as they are becoming an endangered species within Britain, as it would be such a shame for this species to become extinct.


1: http://www.britishhedgehogs.org.uk/pdf/SoBH_2015.pdf
2: http://www.britishhedgehogs.org.uk/leaflets/L9-Basic-Facts.pdf

Photographs taken by myself on 7th July and 27th July.

Congratulations!

We had over 5000 students graduating last week and luckily it only rained heavily for one of those days.
Paul potted up some fantastic looking planters which we dotted around campus to give that dash of colour which we all love to have in the background of our photographs.

The entire university came together to create a fantastic event for our graduates which should be remembered by them for a long time to come. I know I still remember my own graduation.
The grounds team worked very hard to ensure the borders looked their best for those important photographs. We started at 7am every morning to make sure the grass was cut and any litter was removed before the first arrivals of the day. I'd like to think that our hard work paid off and that visitors and staff alike enjoyed the week in a stunning and colourful location.

(Photographs taken by Carl 25-29th July)

August Maintenance

What to do in the garden in August

 

·         Towards the end of August sow hardy annuals directly into borders. They will overwinter and flower next summer (Just remember where you’ve planted them to not get them mixed up with weeds)

·          Cut back the foliage and stems of herbaceous plants that have already died back

·         Don’t neglect hanging baskets - deadheading, watering and feeding will help them last through until autumn

·         Dead-head plants such as Dahlia, roses and Penstemon and bedding plants to stop them self-seeding and to prolong the display into early autumn

·         Don’t cut off the flowers of ornamental grasses as these will provide winter interest

·         Hardy geraniums can be cut back a little to remove tired leaves and encourage a new flush of growth

·         Prune climbing and rambling roses that do not repeat flower or produce attractive hips, once the flowers have finished

·         Prune Wisteria and shrubs such as Pyracantha after flowering

·         Lightly prune Hebes and lavenders after flowering

·         Give hedges a final trim. They will only grow a little before the cold weather kicks in

·         Keep early-flowering shrubs such as Camellia and Rhododendron well watered during dry periods to ensure good flower bud initiation

·         Keep patio containers plants well watered

·         Stake tall or top heavy Dahlias and Lilies to prevent wind and rain damage

·         Dead-head Lilies for a better flower display next year

·         Cut back herbs now to encourage a new flush to harvest before the frost

·         Collect ripened seed and store for next year. Leave some in place as they can be aesthetically pleasing to see

·         Mow wildflower meadows to help scatter the seeds

·         Take cuttings of your favourite tender perennials such as Pelargoniums and Fuchsia to propagate them for next year

·         Finish dividing clumps of Bearded Iris so they have time to form roots and flower buds for next year before the cold weather arrives

 

 

Information provided by www.thompson-morgan.com and www.rhs.org.uk

 

Me Ol' Bamboo

Sadly I will not be posting the lyrics to Me Ol' Bamboo from Chitty Chitty Bang Bang for you, although I'd like to think the song is in your head now.

I had a lady ask me a couple of weeks ago if I knew anything about bamboo and how to maintain it and whether or not it should be cut down to the ground every year. So I thought that this blog was the perfect place to tell you all about the general maintenance requirements of this plant. Should you yourself have any questions about other plants then please feel free to leave me a message and I will create a profile about that plant for you to see on here.

Bamboo plants are very desirable as they are used as focal points or for adding structure to a border. They are classed as either running or clump-forming. Running ones are more commonly known as invasive bamboos as these create long rhizomes which grow away from the main plant and grow rampantly if not contained. Clump-forming bamboos are as the name suggests ones that grow in tight clumps and are less invasive. There are various types of bamboo and they can work in nearly every garden situation.

When you have picked out your particular variety then plant it in the spring to allow the plant to produce a good amount of canes for the summer. You should ensure that you water the plant regularly during dry periods and apply a balanced fertiliser to ensure it has the best chance of surviving.
To try and make sure your bamboo doesn’t overrun the rest of your garden it can be beneficial to create a barrier around the base by digging a trench at least 60cm deep, and lining it with solid materials such as paving slabs or root barrier fabric which overlap each other. The barrier should protrude from the soil by about 7.5cm to stop the bamboo stems from arching over the top and spreading further. To stop unwanted growth within your garden you would need to cut off the underground rhizomes from the parent plant and cut the canes of that section to the ground. It is recommended that you then use a stump and root killer but that would depend on how you felt about using chemicals in your garden. Another way to ensure it does not overrun your garden is to keep it in a container. Bamboos do make a good focal point when kept in a patio container. This would require frequent watering and a liquid feed to ensure the plant receives all the nutrients it needs.
When it comes to general maintenance, in spring remove any dead, weak or damaged canes by cutting them to ground level and remove any debris from around the base. To create a more aesthetically pleasing look then remove some of the foliage from the base of the canes to create a smooth finish.
Should your bamboo start to flower, then cut out that particular shoot as this can weaken the plant. But if the whole plant starts to flower then allow it to occur. The bamboo will look unattractive but continue to feed and water it. Then in the spring, cut the bamboo down to ground level and feed with a nitrogen fertiliser which will encourage new growth.
If you wish to propagate then divide the plant in mid-spring. Rhizome cuttings can be taken in early spring by choosing 1-2 one year old canes and cut the rhizomes away from the plant. Cut the canes down to 30cm and place horizontally in a tray of gritty compost and lightly cover. Water the cuttings and keep in a warm place, then plant out in the following spring when the chance of frost has passed.

So to answer the original question that was posed, then no the bamboo canes do not need to be cut down every year unless there are the odd flowering shoots.

 

Reference and image: www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?PID=79