Me Ol' Bamboo

Sadly I will not be posting the lyrics to Me Ol' Bamboo from Chitty Chitty Bang Bang for you, although I'd like to think the song is in your head now.

I had a lady ask me a couple of weeks ago if I knew anything about bamboo and how to maintain it and whether or not it should be cut down to the ground every year. So I thought that this blog was the perfect place to tell you all about the general maintenance requirements of this plant. Should you yourself have any questions about other plants then please feel free to leave me a message and I will create a profile about that plant for you to see on here.

Bamboo plants are very desirable as they are used as focal points or for adding structure to a border. They are classed as either running or clump-forming. Running ones are more commonly known as invasive bamboos as these create long rhizomes which grow away from the main plant and grow rampantly if not contained. Clump-forming bamboos are as the name suggests ones that grow in tight clumps and are less invasive. There are various types of bamboo and they can work in nearly every garden situation.

When you have picked out your particular variety then plant it in the spring to allow the plant to produce a good amount of canes for the summer. You should ensure that you water the plant regularly during dry periods and apply a balanced fertiliser to ensure it has the best chance of surviving.
To try and make sure your bamboo doesn’t overrun the rest of your garden it can be beneficial to create a barrier around the base by digging a trench at least 60cm deep, and lining it with solid materials such as paving slabs or root barrier fabric which overlap each other. The barrier should protrude from the soil by about 7.5cm to stop the bamboo stems from arching over the top and spreading further. To stop unwanted growth within your garden you would need to cut off the underground rhizomes from the parent plant and cut the canes of that section to the ground. It is recommended that you then use a stump and root killer but that would depend on how you felt about using chemicals in your garden. Another way to ensure it does not overrun your garden is to keep it in a container. Bamboos do make a good focal point when kept in a patio container. This would require frequent watering and a liquid feed to ensure the plant receives all the nutrients it needs.
When it comes to general maintenance, in spring remove any dead, weak or damaged canes by cutting them to ground level and remove any debris from around the base. To create a more aesthetically pleasing look then remove some of the foliage from the base of the canes to create a smooth finish.
Should your bamboo start to flower, then cut out that particular shoot as this can weaken the plant. But if the whole plant starts to flower then allow it to occur. The bamboo will look unattractive but continue to feed and water it. Then in the spring, cut the bamboo down to ground level and feed with a nitrogen fertiliser which will encourage new growth.
If you wish to propagate then divide the plant in mid-spring. Rhizome cuttings can be taken in early spring by choosing 1-2 one year old canes and cut the rhizomes away from the plant. Cut the canes down to 30cm and place horizontally in a tray of gritty compost and lightly cover. Water the cuttings and keep in a warm place, then plant out in the following spring when the chance of frost has passed.

So to answer the original question that was posed, then no the bamboo canes do not need to be cut down every year unless there are the odd flowering shoots.

 

Reference and image: www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?PID=79

A dash of colour to brighten your day

I did a walk around the campus yesterday to see how the grounds are progressing as we head into summer and found there to be a lot of colour out there, and lots more to come over the next month or so.

I took this picture of a pink rhododendron just outside the entrance to the grounds maintenance garages. Unfortunately I have been unable to find the exact name of this particular cultivar but should you wish to see it then just head into the woodland at Queenswood along the dirt track towards the Queen Victoria commemoration structure.

Then at the bottom of the steps leading up to Carnegie Village between the Cavendish and Fairfax buildings we have a stunning yellow Laburnum x watereri 'Vossii'.

 

 



Then again we have another rhododendron just between the bottom of the technology building steps and the steps leading up to Carnegie. This particular variety may be Rhododendron oreotrephes.

Also at the bottom of the steps that lead up to Carnegie we have what I believe to be a Syringa (Lilac) but I am unable to find the cultivar.

Then at the top of the steps leading up to Carnegie and also at The Cottage, the Iris bulbs are now flowering and are definitely worth a look before they finish for the season.

Along the borders of the Carnegie building there are a couple of Fuschia shrubs starting to flower which will be spectacular once they open up fully. I believe this one to be Fuschia glazioviana.

Next to the Fuschia shrubs there is a Leucanthemum x superbum, common name Shasta daisy, which is just starting to flower. There are plenty of buds on this shrub for a fantastic summer display should you wish to see it.

 

If you head towards Churchwood and look down the right hand side of the grassed area you will see some more rhododendrons in flower.

Down the road following the front borders of the Priestley and Macaulay buildings you will see Choisya ternata 'Sundance', common name Mexican orange, starting to flower and Potentilla fruiticosa, common name Shrubby cinquefoil, in flower respectively.

 

Then at the bottom corner of the Grange closest to the Acre there is an Aesculus x carnea (Red flowering horse chestnut) and could be the cultivar 'Briotii' tree which is currently in flower and looks really colourful.

I hope you've enjoyed this tour of the grounds and be sure to have a walk round yourself if you can, there really is so much to see now and so much more still to see as the months progress.


(Photographs taken by myself on 15th June 2016)

As wise as an owl...

This photograph of a gorgeous tawny owl was taken by Rach on the 11th April in a secluded area of woodland just behind the polytunnels at our garages. So this is our bird of the day today.

The tawny owl, otherwise known as Strix aluco in Latin is part of the Strigidae (owl) family.

This bird is roughly the size of a pigeon and has a rounded body and head, with a dark circle of feathers around its face. It is mainly reddish brown when seen from above or behind but the underside is paler. 

The tawny owl is a nocturnal bird and is often heard calling at night but not often seen. Normally you would only catch a glimpse of one during the day if you happen to disturb its nesting site.

It is widespread across England, Scotland and Wales, but not in Ireland. There are approximately 50,000 breeding pairs across the UK and they can be seen all year round if you are very lucky.

Tawny owls like to feast on small mammals and rodents, small birds, frogs, fish, insects and worms. 

Established pairs of tawny owls usually don't leave their territories, whilst their young disperse in the autumn to find their own patch of land. So potentially we have an established owl living in our own backyard which really shows just how much our biodiversity action plan is doing to benefit the surrounding wildlife.

(Information on the tawny owl and other bird species can be found on the RSPB website)

June Maintenance

What to do in your garden in June

·         Plant out summer bedding

·         Plant up containers

·         Plant out Cannas and Dahlias

·         Continue to thin out hardy annuals if they are overcrowded

·         Lift and divide snowdrops and bluebells

·         Lift and divide overcrowded bulbs

·         Keep newly planted trees and shrubs well watered

·         Annuals can still be sown such as Calendula, Godetia, and Clarkia

·         Perennials such as Delphiniums and Lupins can be sown directly into drills outside once the seed heads have ripened and started to split naturally

·         Pinch out the tips of Fuschias to encourage a bushy habit and more flowers

·         Once your sweet peas start to flower, pick them out to encourage more flowers

·         Dead-head and cut back oriental poppies to just above ground level to stimulate new growth

·         Near the end of June, cut back hardy geraniums to encourage new flowers and foliage

·         Cut back bulb foliage as soon as they have died down naturally

·         Stake tall or floppy perennials to prevent wind damage

·         Tie in and train climbing plants to their supports

·         Prune out overcrowded or dead stems of evergreen clematis to maintain a good shape

·         Harvest flower heads from your lavender to use in baking

·         Winter bedding plants can be sown from May to July ready for the following winter

·         Hellebore seed can be harvested once the seed heads have ripened. The seeds need to be sown immediately whilst fresh, and need a winter’s cold season in order to break their dormancy in order for germination to occur

·         Spreading and trailing plants should be trimmed back after flowering to encourage fresh growth and new flowers

·         Pinch out the leading shoots on plants such as Chrysanthemum and Helianthus to encourage bushy plants

·         Divide Hostas as they come into growth

·         Divide Primula after flowering, planting in a nursery bed until they are ready for planting out again in the autumn

·         Hoe borders to prevent annual and perennial weeds from spreading and seeding themselves

·         Tackle bindweed as and when it appears

 

(Information provided by www.thompson-morgan.com and www.rhs.org.uk)

 

May maintenance

Apologies for not posting this at the beginning of May but I thought I'd still share it with you so you know what to tackle next May.

   

What to do in your garden in May

• Thin out hardy annuals
• Herbaceous perennials can still be divided
• Divide Hostas
• Trim back spreading plants such as Aubretia and Alyssum after flowering to encourage new growth
• Prune Penstemons by cutting all the old shoots back to the base provided there is new growth at the bottom, if not then cut to just above the lowest set of leaves
• Take cuttings of tender perennials such as Fuchsia and Pelargoniums
• Take softwood cuttings of shrubby herbs such as sage and lemon verbena
• Prune out overcrowded and dead stems of early-flowering clematis after flowering
• Tie in climbing and rambling roses
• Tie in sweet peas to encourage climbing
• Prune spring flowering shrubs after flowering
• Cut back flowered shoots of Choisya to encourage a second flush of flowers in autumn
• Trim lavender plants
• Feed and water container plants
• Top-dress permanent pot plants to refresh the compost
• Plant up pots and baskets of summer bedding and harden off before placing in position
• Inspect your plants for pests and diseases
• Pick off larvae of rosemary, viburnum and lily beetles as soon as they are seen
• Look out for signs of blackspot on roses
• Earth up potatoes
• Continue to weed beds and borders
• Prune wall-trained pyracantha, removing any shoots that are coming away from the wall

(Information provided by www.thompson-morgan.com and www.rhs.org.uk)

 

Apologies

I'd like to just take a moment to apologise for not updating the blog for awhile.
Unfortunately I've been off sick from work so haven't been able to update the blog with new pictures and information from around campus. But I'm back at work now so I'll be sure to keep you all updated as we progress through the year.
We're in the run up to graduation now so we're working hard to get the grounds into tip top shape ready for the week of the 25th July which means I should have lots of photographs to share with you over the coming weeks.